The above was tough enough without mathmatical symbols. Now I could go through the raw math behind CR calculation but it's a bitch without a white board and having to do it on this format. Easy! I dropped the last digits as it's really not necessary to know your comp ratio to a hundred thousandth. Now we subtract this from the cylinder volume and get 11.96 cc's of dome volume. We add fluid to the cylinder and find that we can get 54.5 cc's of fluid in. The formula goes like this Pir2h, (hard to show without math symbols) so 3.141x2116x10= 66463.56 Now we need to convert this cc's by dividing by 1000 so 66463.56=66.46456. diameter /2=r so r=46, radius squared is 2116. So for example, say the piston is 10mm down in the bore and your bore is 92mm. For me, it's easiest to calculate it metrically. Piston cc with domes can also be calculated by turning the crank until the dome just hits a straight edge over that cylinder, then measure how far the piston is down in the bore, calculate the volume of a cylinder, fill with fluid while measuring and subtract that amount of fluid from what a cylinder would be and presto, you have your piston dome cc. I also got a real world piston cc using the same method as I'm using dishes with quench pads.
I cc'd the head with a plexiglass plate, some mineral spirits colored with trans fluid and a 10cc (ml) oral syringe that I got from the local drug store for free for the asking. Piston cc is entered as positive number for a dish and a negative number for a pop-up. THe easiest way to figure the compression ratio is to use the KB calculator here: You just enter the bore, stroke, cylinder head cc, head gasket thickness, head gasket diameter, piston to deck clearance and piston cc. I may also get myself an adjustable fuel pressure regulator too.Ĭlick to expand.Thank you Moparfreak77, Just maybe I might be able to touch a 30 hp gain. I'll also be using '99+ intake manifold (which isn't really mentioned but is a much, much better design) and the early throttle body (the largest offered by the factory). my engine should make about 215 hp, a 25 hp gain. lbs from either engine is nothing to sneeze at, that's for sure.
It is interesting that the stock cam is sufficient to feed an additional half a liter and makes more power at a higher rpm than the aftermarket comp cam, but less torque. No one makes such a beast though (well, someone does but they want $2K for it and say that it will only run 20K miles before it wears out). 510-520 range in a hydraulic roller configuration. What I would really like is a cam with the stock duration and LCA, but with a lift in the. I think that's interesting.ĬompCams 68-115-4 192/200 degree camshaftįord 24lb/hr injectors with stock 39psi FPR for '87-'95 engines, stock injectors with stock 49psi FPR for '96 and later engines Note that the second build makes more power than the first with the stock cam. My build is kind of a mix between these two builds. Click to expand.LMAO, nope they probably didn't.